In Madrid you're kissed at least twice a day. From the casual ‘dos besos’ that occur as a greeting, to the passionate ‘besos de lengua’ I’ve seen take place in the grass of Parque del Oeste.
Dos BesosWhen I first got to Madrid, I kept trying to shake people's hands. Many times, while introducing ourselves to others, Kara and I would simultaneous stick out our hands, burst out laughing, and then go in for kisses.
At first I was uncomfortable with kissing on the cheek, but lately I am very aware of the handshake and just how impersonal a gesture it is.
Still, I'm not sure I will ever be able to get the double kiss exactly right.
Thursday (at an
amazing club we discovered, Garamond) I went in for the kiss WAY too early. Juan was right in the middle of introducing himself--mid-sentence actually--when I thrusted my cheek at his face.
Yes, the ‘dos besos’ can get very awkward. While interviewing for tutoring jobs this weekend, I couldn’t figure out if it was proper to kiss the parents or not. At one interview, the mother went in for the kiss, but the father was totally against it, and when I made a motion towards him, he stood stationary with his hands in his pockets.
I also should mention (just in case you decide to come to Spain) that the double kiss is just an
illusion! I wish someone had mentioned that to me before I spent a month pressing my puckered lips against the cheeks of every man and woman I met…
PDA
So I had my first quadruple kiss...

As I was being coaxed into the kiss by Antonio, Carlos, and Diego, I was #1 confused as to where we were (Spring Break?) and #2 confused as to why three guys would want to kiss each other. In the end, I agreed to go in for a peck, managing to kiss only one on the lips (the guy in the middle, naturally) while the other two landed somewhere in between my lips and cheek. *Another cultural difference worth noting: Spanish guys, both straight and gay, are very affectionate towards one another.
Public displays of affection are almost as common in the streets of Madrid as are legs of jamón.
And I love it.
While walking home from my last Spanish class, I saw a beautiful thing. A sharply-dressed man and woman were stopped in the middle of the sidewalk, kissing, their arms wrapped tightly around one another. In her hand she held a bouquet of flowers.
When I reached the end of the street, I turned back, only to see the couple in the same spot, in the same embrace.